Castle Gap
McCamey, Upton County, Texas
Marker Inscription
Castle Gap, famous early pass for southwestern trails, lies 14 miles northwest along the Upton-Crane County line. Through this mile-long gap between Castle and King mountains flowed the full panorama of Texas history-- Indian, Spaniard, Stage and Trail Herd Driver, Settler, '49er. In prehistoric time Castle Gap was a landmark for nomadic Indian tribes and later guided the Commanches on their war trail into Mexico. The first white man to discover the pass was probably the Spanish explorer Felipe Rabago y Teran in 1761. Then came the '49ers in their frenzied rush to the California gold fields, to be followed by other, more permanent settlers. From 1858 to 1861 the famed Butterfield Overland Mail coaches rumbled through the pass on their 24-day journey from St. Louis to San Francisco, pausing briefly at the adobe-walled Castle Gap station for fresh teams. Then they were off again, fording into the sunset. By 1866 the Goodnight-Loving cattle trail was firmly established at the gap, funneling tens of thousands of brawling longhorn cattle to the northern markets. During this same period, legend holds that a treasure-laden aide of Emperor Maximilian of Mexico, fleeing the country when the regime collapsed, buried gold and jewels in the area. Dust of the pioneers settled long ago. Today Castle Gap slumbers peacefully, disturbed only by visitors, occasional treasure hunters and those who probe for ruins of the Butterfield station and the rapidly fading ruts of coach and wagon.
Erected by Texas Historical Commission
The Story
A mile-long gap between Castle and King mountains, Castle Gap funneled nearly the whole pageant of West Texas travel through one narrow pass. Comanche war parties, the Spanish explorer Rabago y Teran, gold-rush '49ers, Butterfield Overland Mail coaches from 1858 to 1861, and the Goodnight-Loving cattle trail after 1866 all passed this way, and legend places buried Maximilian treasure nearby. Today its old coach ruts fade quietly into the desert.
Why it matters
Castle Gap is a single landmark where Indigenous, Spanish, overland-mail, and cattle-trail histories of the American West all converge.
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Related people
- · Felipe Rabago y Teran
Related events
- · Butterfield Overland Mail
- · Goodnight-Loving Trail
Themes & tags
Nearby & related markers
Mendoza Trail
McCamey, TX
In 1683–1684, Lt. Gen. Juan Dominguez de Mendoza led a party of 35 across the future Upton County on a Spanish expedition to explore the Pecos Plains, gather river pearls, and bring Christianity to the Jumano Indians. Setting out from below El Paso, the group founded San Clemente Mission where the Concho met the Colorado. Two centuries later, cattlemen following the Goodnight-Loving trail retraced part of Mendoza's route.
Camp Melvin and the Pontoon Crossing of the Pecos River
Iraan, TX
Where the often flood-swollen Pecos River could be crossed, travelers found a lifeline for centuries. Spanish explorer Juan Domínguez de Mendoza camped and forded here in 1684, trader Henry Connelly used the same spot in 1840, and in 1868 the U.S. Army — seeking a safer route than Comanche-plagued Horsehead Crossing — built a floating pontoon bridge whose landings could shift with the river's width. To guard travelers the Army established nearby Camp Melvin, but by the 1920s better roads had left the crossing to history.
Castle Gap
Crane, TX
Castle Gap, a natural notch in the Castle Mountains of West Texas, has funneled travelers for millennia — from prehistoric Native peoples who left flint points, to Spanish explorers, California-bound gold-seekers, the Butterfield Overland Mail stages of 1858–1861, and the great Goodnight-Loving cattle drives after 1866. A spring within the gap made it a vital watering stop on the road to Horsehead Crossing on the Pecos.
Horsehead Crossing
Girvin, TX
Horsehead Crossing was the great ford of the Pecos River, named for the horse and mule skulls that littered its banks—animals driven up the Comanche War Trail that drank themselves to death after the long dry haul. After the 1849 gold rush it became a vital landmark, offering the first water in some 75 miles, and by 1858 it anchored a stage stand on the Butterfield Overland Mail. Confederate and Union eyes watched it during the Civil War, and in 1866 Goodnight and Loving blazed their famous cattle trail to this very point.